I recently spent several hours making traditional English desserts for Christmas and got to thinking about the traditions involved It’s not enough to just assemble the ingredients and the equipment or turn on the oven. Rituals have to be observed too.
Take mincepies (no meat, just that rich fruit mixture that Crosse & Blackwell makes available in jars in your supermarket this time of year). When I was growing up in London just after World War II, we had to make enough little individual pies to serve the family on Christmas and Boxing Days, and also all the carolers who might stop by in the week before Christmas. The lore is that you have to eat one mincepie for each of the twelve months of the New Year if you want to ensure good luck. No cheating, either; you have to eat them in different houses. This keeps the carolers busy in the neighborhood and contributes to the friendly visiting that goes on during the holidays. My mother made her own mincemeat ahead of time with dried fruits and brandy, but I’ve never done that.
Christmas Pudding, sometimes known as “plum pudding,” although there are no plums involved (or figs either, in spite of what the carol says), is a holiday treat with serious tradition attached to the making and serving. First of all, if you’re just now making the pudding for this year’s feast, you’re already too late. “Xmas Pud” as we Londoners fondly call it, should be made a year ahead, giving the pudding time to age and mature. But don’t fret; I only made mine at the end of October. A lot of good stuff goes into this steamed pudding – eggs, dark brown sugar, raisins dark and golden, currants, chopped apple, lemon peel, cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger, brandy, and a dark beer to mix. My mother’s recipe called for suet as shortening, and as a young bride in Indiana I went looking for the packets of dried, cleaned, shredded suet in the market. When I was finally compelled to ask the butcher for help, he shook his head and offered me a large amount of the bloody, fatty tissue in a sheet of paper, clean and chop it yourself. No charge, because American butchers wisely throw this stuff away. After a couple of years of dealing with this chore, I gave up and switched to vegetable shortening. Actually, I’ve learned butter does as well and maybe better, if you’re not counting calories.
The protocol for Christmas Pudding is that everybody in the house at the time of its making must take a turn stirring the mixture with a wooden spoon and adding a wish.The pudding is hard to stir, but even little kids can grasp the spoon with both hands and move the mixture an inch. The wish is the important part. The puddings will steam for eight to ten hours, then be stored as long as possible until Christmas and reheated. Some families put little silver good-luck charms or silver coins in the pudding, either before cooking or when the pudding comes to the table. Mind your teeth if you do this.
Now comes another ceremony. My dad, who was the holiday cook in our house, used to bring the pudding to the table with a festive sprig of holly on top, but an older tradition – which I use today – calls for pouring brandy over it and carrying the flaming pudding into a darkened dining room. The year I got engaged to an American, my dad decided to impress the Yank by showing off our traditions, so he poured the brandy and lit the pudding. Spectacular! Especially since he’d forgotten to omit the sprig of holly which flamed merrily. (My fiancé was very impressed.)
Luckily, the Christmas Cake doesn’t carry such a burden of ceremony. But it too should be made way ahead of time and allowed to mature. I use the same recipe as the royal bakers use for royal wedding cake, and they allow twelve months for the cake to age before covering it with marzipan and decorating with hard frosting. (No smashing cake into each other’s faces here!)
If this brief account has made you sentimental about Christmas ceremonies, I’ll be glad to share the recipes – for next year’s eating, you understand